Monday, June 29, 2020

29 June 2020 National Corvette Museum

We passed by the National Corvette Museum on our way to Cave City on Friday. We took the day to run into Bowling Green to get some errands taken care of (Oil Change for the truck and grocery shopping) and visit the museum. Leslie owned a Corvette back in the early 90s. David had passed through Bowling Green multiple times in the past but never had time to stop at the museum. They had quite a few old Corvettes, experimental cars, and a special Rat Fink car display. They had two of the 1953, first generation Corvettes on display. For David, the most iconic Corvette is the 1967 model year. Back in 2014, a portion of the museum was sucked down into a sinkhole. 8 Corvettes were pulled into the hole. Only two of them were salvageable. The other six were on display in their original condition, still covered in dirt and rocks. They even had a film on how they repaired the museum after pulling out the cars and filling in the sinkhole. They had several of the new mid-engine C8 (8th generation of Corvette) on display and they look pretty awesome. 

National Corvette Museum

1953 Original Corvette

1967 Corvette

2020 Corvette C8

Corvettes recovered from the sinkhole


28 June 2020 Mammoth Cave National Park

We started our day with Mexican Food Sunday! There is a fairly good Mexican restaurant very close to the RV Park. To be honest, it was our second choice after we found the line a Cracker Barrel was 45 minutes to get a table. 

 

We were happy to find the Mammoth Cave NP Visitor Center was open when we arrived. We had tickets for the 12:30 self tour for the Extended Historic Tour. Leslie was happy to find post cards and David was able to buy his NP hat and coffee mug. None of the guided tours to the lower caves were being offered yet. After getting our safety and history briefing from the ranger, we were cleared to go into the cave. It was raining fairly hard as we trekked to the historic entrance to the cave. There are over 412 miles of cave passages mapped so far, making Mammoth the longest cave in the world. Even as we began our tour, there was a mapping team deep in the cave adding more miles to that number. The three miles we were allowed to tour was the huge upper cave passages. The caves in this area are carved by underground rivers. Limestone is the primary rock in this area from an inland sea 80 million years ago. In places, there is a sandstone cap. Compared to the recent caves we have been in, these caves were massive and open. Native Indians originally explored the caves 4000 years ago. The remains of their reed torches and tools were found up to two miles into the cave. In the early 1800s, bat guano was mined to support the production of gun powder. The extensive mining works are still visible in our tour. In another area, a company tried to start a mushroom growing farm. But companies that were running tourists through the cave sabotaged it, possibly. In yet another area, in 1842, they brought 30 tuberculosis patients into the cave and set up huts to see if the cool/moist air would help their condition. But they had to run fires 24 hours a day to provide light and for cooking. The smoke built up in the cave and worsened their condition and half of them died in the cave. The rocks in the cave are still discolored from the smoke.  What we did not see was the usual cave formations (Flow Stone, Stalactites, Stalagmites, etc) that we have seen in all our other cave tours. That is because these caves are formed by underground rivers instead of dissolved minerals. Mammoth cave became a National Park in 1929 but was not opened to the public until 1941.

Entrance Sign
Historic Cave Entrance

Cave Passage

Cave Passage

Cave Passage

Huts where the Tuberculosis Patients stayed

Cave Passage

Water Fall at cave entrance

 


Saturday, June 27, 2020

26 June 2020 Chattanooga TN to Cave City KY

We  Drove from Chattanooga TN to Cave City KY via Nashville today. It was only a 5 hour drive with stops mostly on freeway. Getting out of the Raccoon Mountain camp ground to I-27 required dodging some low hanging trees. We ran into some rain along the way, so the Wanderer is going to need a good scrubbing. We were disappointed they did not open Russell Cave NM while we were there. We hope this is not a trend for the rest of the summer. We are staying at Cave City RV Campground ($37 per night) in Cave City. When we went to check in, we found out they were not expecting us until the next day due to a screw up by the staff, but they moved some other arrivals around and squeezed us in. We are only 5 miles from the entrance to Mammoth Cave National Park. We have tickets for a self guided tour of the cave on Sunday. The guided tours are still not starting back up yet, but they are allowing the self guided tours on staggered starting times to enforce social distancing in the cave. We also plan to see Abraham Lincoln’s Birthplace National Historic Site as well as the nearby Corvette Museum. After arrived in Cave City, we went out to get some groceries and ended up going to four different little groceries stores to find only a portion of what we wanted. So it looks like trips to Bowling Green for grocery shopping will be required. Checking the weather, it seems like the rain is following us north as there is a good chance for rain to rain the entire time we are here. 

Wednesday, June 24, 2020

24 June 2020 Rained out

We had planned to go down to Little River Canyon National Preserve today. But when we got up in the morning and checked the weather radar we could see there would be a steady train of rain across the area all day long. So we will have to visit it when we come back to see Russell Cave NM.  

21 June 2020 Lookout Mountain and Ruby Falls

We decided to skip church today to get some running around done before the rain moved in. We started the morning off with some good Mexican food on the north shore of the Tennessee river. Then we made our way to the REI on the east side of town. Leslie needs a good pair of hiking boots that fit right. We bought some boots back in January, but we found out they were much to small after a hike in the Everglades that tore her feet up. We got some good help getting a proper fitting pair of boots at REI and are looking forward to giving them a workout. After REI we made our way to Lookout Mountain. We had reservations for the 4:30 tour of Ruby Fall Caverns ($56). We just managed to get in before the rain came pounding down. The tour through the Caverns was nice. The caverns formations are a bit sparse compared to other caverns we have toured, but the falls at the end is spectacular. The falls is 90 feet tall and fed by rainwater from a yet to be discovered source. The falls were discovered in 1928 and the privately owned caverns opened in 1929. T the point where the falls are located, you are 1,120 feet below the surface. The lighting makes the falling water glitter. The tour is roughly 1 mile in length and David had to duck down a lot, but the trail is easy to follow and mostly flat. 

After the tour, we drove to the top of Lookout Mountain and drove around the top of the mountain. We made our way to Military Point Park, which overlooks Chattanooga, but found it was closed off. So after driving around the mountain for a while, we headed back just as the rain began pounding down on us. 


Entrance Sign

Ruby Falls

Cavern Formation

Tobacco Leaves Cavern Formation

Niagara Falls Cavern Formation

Ruby Falls

Us Standing in front of the falls


20 June 2020 Chickamauga & Chattanooga National Military Parks, GA

With the weather looking doubtful for the week, we decided to do a tour of the Chickamauga civil war battlefield. Unfortunately, the visitor centers for the battlefields are still closed due to COVID. We watched the Chickamauga parks film on line and researched the park. The battlefield outdoor tour was open for either hiking or auto touring. With rain occurring off and on, we chose the auto tour. They have a phone number you can call with your cell phone and get a audio tour of the battlefield as you drive from point to point. In August 1863, Union forces captured Chattanooga, a major rail hub for Confederate forces. Confederate forces from Atlanta marched to reclaim Chattanooga and the Union and Confederate armies met in the mountains south east of Chattanooga at Chickamauga. The battle lasted two days before Union forces withdrew to Chattanooga. The Union lost 16,000 men killed, wounded or captured. Confederate forces lost 18,000 killed, wounded or captured. Confederate forces bombarded Chattanooga from the mountaintops overlooking the town for two months. In November, Union forces, now under the command of General Grant, pushed Confederate forces off of Mission Ridge, Lookout Mountain and back toward Atlanta. Neither Leslie nor David are Civil War buffs, so a lot of the signage and 1500 monuments did not mean much to us. But it is still a impressive park to tour and imagine the thousands of men surging back and forth through the hail of bullets and cannon fire. The park was created in 1890 and many of the monuments and plaques were put in place by veterans of the battle who remembered the intimate details of the battles even 30 years later. We finished the tour at the top of Snodgrass Hill where the rear guard of the Union army held off the Confederate forces to allow the army to retreat to Chattanooga. 


Entrance Sign

Canon from the battle

Memorial

Wiley Memorial Tower

Snodgrass Cabin


19 June 2020 Santee SC to Chattanooga TN

We got an early start this morning. This is probably the longest drive we have planned for this summer. We are happy to leave South Carolina behind and begin our journey north for the summer. Today’s drive was nine hours, most of it freeway. We decided to take the loop around Atlanta due to recent riots in downtown Atlanta which spilled over to the freeways through downtown. We are staying in the Raccoon Mountain and Caverns Campground ($53 per night with GSC) just outside Chattanooga. David has visited Chattanooga previously for SAE, so he knew the lay of the land. Traffic getting through Chattanooga was heavy as we arrived during the height of rush hour. The hills are beautiful and green. Our plan was to visit Russell Cave NM in northern Alabama. But we checked before we left Santee and found it was still closed due to COVID. We emailed the park and they responded that they have no plan for reopening. So we researched some other things to do in Chattanooga area. There are a couple of Civil War Military Parks, we saw an article in the Escapees Newsletter for Little River National Scenic River that looked interesting and our Friends Bill and Pam suggested Ruby Falls. David has quite a bit of work planned as well. Unfortunately, the weather is not looking good for our stay with lots of rain in the forecast.

Sunday, June 14, 2020

14 June 2020 Congaree NP

With the weather looking pretty questionable for the next few days, we decided to skip church service and visit Congaree NP today. Congaree NP is only partially open so far. The “front country”, where the 2.5 mile boardwalk and the visitor center are located is still closed. But the “back country” hiking and canoeing trails are open. We hiked the Kingsnake Trail from the Cedar Creek Canoe put in to Bridge J. According to our All Trails app we hiked 5.6 miles, gained 13 feet of elevation and burned 1,291 calories. Congaree NP is on the Congaree River and was made a NP in 2003. The river inundates the parklands several times a year. The river has wandered through the low country of the park for centuries and created hundreds of oxbow lakes. The area is heavily forested and has some of the last old growth hardwood forest left in the eastern US. The Kingsnake trail wanders through this low country on an old logging road. At about the three-mile point, the bridge over Cedar Creek had the two ends washed out. People were still climbing up on the elevated portion of the bridge to get across the river. We decided it was a good turn around point. It was more humid on this trail than the trail through the Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic NP we hiked last year. Fortunately it was not really hot and the bugs were not very active. The Oxbow lakes had lots of crawfish in them and we saw some raccoon tracks. We could hear a woodpecker and an owl, but the forest was so thick we could not see far. There were a lot of bald cypress trees along with various other hardwoods.  The trees in this floodplain forest are some of the tallest on the east coast. Surprisingly, there were actually quite a few people on the trail, but everyone kept their distance. With the visitor center closed, we could not go in and see the park movie or buy David’s NP Hat. But we had emailed the park ranger earlier and they agreed to send us a stamp for our NP Passport. 


Entrance Sign
Oxbow Lake

Bridge over an Oxbow Lake


Bald Cypress low lands

Bridge J

Saturday, June 13, 2020

13 June 2020 Rolling, Rolling, Rolling

We’re back on the road again!!! Today we pulled out of the Oak Plantation Campground. We were originally just supposed to be there for a week. We ended up staying for almost three months due to the COVID-19 lockdown. It was SO good to be back on the road and moving again! It took us a bit longer to get ready to go. Since we had not packed up for a while we had to pull out the checklist to make sure we had not forgotten anything. David spent 45 minutes getting all the tires up to their correct pressures. We were glad the owners let us stay even when they closed down for any new campers the day after we arrived. But we helped keep them in business since we had to pay a weekly rate ($404.22). It was a good place to wait out the COVID closure. We did not go far. About 75 miles, to get closer to Congaree NP. Congaree NP is only partially open, but we will take what we can get. 

 

We spent most of the last week getting our new itinerary worked out as the country reopens and reservations made through the end of September. We still intend to make it to northern Maine, just a couple months later than our original plan. We are staying at the Santee Lakes KOA on Lake Marion, just off I-95. It’s a bit more rustic, and there are a lot of trees, which interfere with the Satellite TV, but there are no RV Parks closer to the NP. 



View from the fishing pier

Monday, June 8, 2020

8 June 2020 Fort Sumter

We wandered our way around Liberty Square, learning about the slave market that was in this location from 1670 through 1807 before wandering up to the Fort Sumter Museum. The Museum was open again, and we spent about a half-hour exploring its exhibits before boarding the tour boat for the fort. The tour boat had its seat spread out to enforce social distancing and everyone’s were sterilized before coming aboard. The boat ride was a slow 40 minute cruise across the harbor. 

Construction of Fort Sumter began in 1828 as part of the costal defense forts built after the war of 1812. The fort was built on top of a man made island. Engineers found the shallowest place in the harbor and then spent 15 years building the artificial island using slave labor. The fort slowly took shape over the next 15 years. The fort was built of bricks, which were made in the Charleston area by slaves. Built with walls of brick five feet thick, the fort used over 6 million bricks. The primary labor was slaves with some master masons. By December 1860, the fort was only 90% complete but none of the canon were mounted. When Major Anderson and the Union Troops transferred to Fort Sumter on 26 December 1860, they were already low on supplies. The soldiers along with the civilian construction crews rushed to
finish the fort. The fort had three levels of firing ports capable of holding 135 canons. With walls fifty feet high, the fort was an imposing structure. The Union troops were able to mount 60 of the 90 guns found in the site but they only had powder and shot for 700 rounds. They were low on food. In January, the army tried to send reinforcements and supplies, but South Carolina Militia fired on the ship and forced it to retreat. On 1 March, the six southern states that had seceded formed the Confederate States of America.  On March 15, President Lincoln was inaugurated. In early April, President Lincoln ordered the reinforcement of Fort Sumter.  The Confederates learned of the reinforcement and on April 11 demanded that Major Anderson surrender. The Major refused and was informed that the bombardment would commence in one hour. At 4:30am on April 12 1861 the confederate canons began firing. Major Anderson kept his troops on the lowest level to provide the most protection. This limited the number and range of canons he could bring to bear on the Confederates. The Confederates bombarded Fort Sumter for 36 hours, firing over 4400 shots. But with the smooth bore canons of the day. Minimal damage was inflicted on the walls of the fort. But the officer and enlisted barracks were set afire. Major Anderson and his troops fired over 300 rounds back at the attackers. Major Anderson had to pull his troops off the guns to fight the fires since they were dangerously close to the powder magazine. When the guns of the fort went silent, the confederates stop the attack and sent a delegation to the fort to request its surrender. With almost no food, raging fires, and very little ammunition remaining, the Union Forces surrendered. But Major Anderson 
requested that a hundred gun salute be fired as part of the surrender ceremony. Unbelievably, after 36 hours of bombardment, neither side had experienced any deaths. But, during the 100 gun salute, one of the canon exploded resulting in the eventual death of two Union Soldiers. The first casualty of the US Civil War was not even a US citizen, he was a Irish emigrant that was trying to earn his citizenship. The remainder of the troops were put on a ship for New York. Confederate Troops occupied Fort Sumter on 13 April. 

In 1862, the Union returned to try and capture Fort Sumter. The Union Navy sent a fleet of Iron Clad Monitors to bombard the fort. After four hours, the Union fleet retreated. Next the Union Navy and Army laded troops on Morris Island. After a two month siege of Fort Johnson, the Union forces took control of Morris Island and brought in large rifled canon. For the next 22 months, the Union forces bombarded Fort Sumter and Charleston in the longest siege in US history. Over 44,000 shells were fired into Fort Sumter reducing it to rubble, but still the Confederate forces hung on. It wasn’t until General Sherman’s march to the Sea, and capture of Charleston, in 1865 that the fort was abandoned. Following the war, the rubble was cleared and the fort was repaired. But the upper tiers of the fort were never rebuilt. In 1898, the US Army built Battery Huger out of reinforced concrete and mounted two large disappearing canon. The remainder of the fort was filled in with sand to provide protection for Battery Huger. The fort was manned until 1947 when the fort was transferred to the park service to become Fort Sumter National Monument. In late 2019, the fort was re-designated a National Historical Park.

At the fort, we listened to the ranger talk about the history of the fort before wandering the grounds and reading all the interpretive signs. Most of the canon in the fort were found when the park service excavated the sand from the majority of the fort. No one was buried on the island. The Confederate casualties were always evacuated to Charleston. We were only given an hour to tour the fort before the ship took us back to Charleston. Once we docked, we went to watch the Park film before heading back to the Wanderer. Just in time, it started to rain as we left downtown Charleston. We leave Charleston on Saturday, heading west for Tennessee. We arrived in Charleston on 18 March expecting to be here for a week and ended up stuck here for three almost months! We are ecstatic to be getting back on the road again!!

Entrance Sign

Fort Sumter from the boat

Canon position

Canon row with Battery Huger in the back ground

A union shell still buried in the wall

Canon positions that were buried in sand

More canon position

Parade ground from Battery Huger. The parade ground was buried in sand when handed over the the park service

Defenses around Charleston Harbor in 1863

7 June 2020 Fort Moultrie

Following church services (Youtube), we decided to try another local Mexican restaurants. This time we tried Senior Tequila and were favorably impressed. We received word on Friday that they were opening Fort Sumter and Museum for tours again and had opened the grounds of Fort Moultrie but not the Fort or it’s Visitor Center. So we made reservations for the boat tour to Fort Sumter on Monday and we decided to come to Fort Moultrie today. Fort Moultrie is located on Sullivan Island, across the main shipping channel from Fort Sumter. The first fort built on this site was in April – June 1776, just after South Carolina had announced its independence from Britain. On June 28, 1776 the fort, made of Palmetto Trees and sand severely damaged a British Invasion force of over 50 ships in the one of the early battles of the American Revolution. Four years later the British returned with a larger force and took the town of Charleston. Following the revolution, the fort was rebuilt but a severe hurricane destroyed the fort. Following the war of 1812, the fort was rebuilt using brick as part of the 72 coastal forts built to defend US harbors. The Fort was only partially completed and was not designed to defend against an invasion from the land side of the fort. During this period, Fort Moultrie was used as a prison for Indian chiefs of some of the eastern tribes. The most famous of which was Oceola in January 1838.

Charleston was the center of the African Slave Trade on the east coast of the US. From 1670 to 1807, when the slave trade was outlawed, over 250,000 slaves were sold to US slaveholders through Charleston. This was only 5-6% of the slaves that came to the Americas (North, Central and South).  They brought with them the essential skills of raising rice, which was the main export from Charleston until just before the civil war. 

On December 20 1860, South Carolina seceded from the Union. At that time, there were four Federally controlled forts ringing Charleston Harbor. Three of the forts were only staffed by one or two Federal caretaker troops. The majority of the troops were stationed at Fort Moultrie. 85 Union Troops under the command of Major Anderson occupied the fort. Major Anderson realized his position was not defendable and so on 26 December 1860, he moved his troops to the partially completed Fort Sumter in the middle of the harbor. This severely upset the South Carolina legislator, which believed the Forts should revert to their control. The next day, the South Carolina Militia occupied Fort Moultrie, Fort Johnson and Castle Pinckney as well as the armory in Charleston. Additional canons were moved into place for the attack on Fort Sumter.

Following the war, Fort Moultrie fell into disrepair. In 1898, with the threat of war with Spain looming on the horizon, the fort was reoccupied and its cannon were updated with long range disappearing cannon and its battlements reinforced with concrete. The forts defenses were improved as part of WW2 defenses. The fort remained occupied by the Army until 1947 when its usefulness was outdated. The lands around Fort Moultrie were sold to private interests and the fort was transferred to the state. In 1961, the fort was transferred back to the federal government and incorporated into the Fort Sumter National Monument. The fort went through significant restoration between 1961 and 1976 before being opened to the public. 

We wandered the grounds of Fort Moultrie and read the interpretive signs before wandering down to the beach for the views across the harbor to the city. 

Entrance Sign

Canon Row

Fort Moultrie from the sea side

Fort Sumter from Fort Moultrie

Civil War era canon mounted in Fort Moultrie


Wednesday, June 3, 2020

1 June 2020 Boarded Up

With the state of South Carolina reopening, and the small stores in the Historic District of Charleston opening back up last week, we decided it would be a good day to go back and walk the district. We parked along the battery and walked up Meeting Street. The old homes are magnificent. Some of them date back to the 1670s. We then cut across to King Street to find the stores and small restaurants. We were surprised to find most of the shops and restaurants were boarded up! Some were open but all the windows and doors were boarded up with plywood. Turns out that the protest march on Saturday night in Charleston, over the death of George Flynn while in police custody in Minneapolis, had turned violent and the windows in many of these small stores had been busted out and there was some looting. With more marches planned, all the shops and restaurants were boarding up their fronts. We did stop and have lunch at one of the sea food restaurants before continuing down King Street. We then cut across to the river front park, past the still empty Charleston Public Market, and walked along the park on the way back to the Behemoth. As we came up to the old Customs House, we started seeing people gathering with protest signs, so we picked up the pace back to the Behemoth and we headed back home. We feel for these small shop owners, first hit with the COVID lockdown and now with riots.  Only to add we cannot make plans moving forward and are in limbo until we get notice from the powers that be. Still stuck in Charleston.
White Point Gardens along Battery Street

One of the old homes along Meeting Street

Empty Charleston Public Market

Fort Sumter across the harbor from the Battery